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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.